|
Post by pinsk94 on Jun 25, 2004 18:39:22 GMT -5
I am currently using Thomastik Infield George Bensons 12's. Next I am going to try the TI Jazz 13's. I used to use D'Addario Chromes 12's along time ago. I wanted to try the TI 13'3 then compare to the Chrome 13's but the gauges are very different. The TI's get relatively thinner as compaired to the chromes. I wanted to try thicker but I love the mellow tone of the TI's. The chromes seem to bright to me. What do you all like and why?
|
|
|
Post by Professor1 on Jun 30, 2004 21:24:18 GMT -5
Right now, I'm using the D'Addario Chromes. I haven't done much experimenting with flatwound strings yet.
|
|
kawe
Member
Posts: 204
|
Post by kawe on Jul 1, 2004 3:44:35 GMT -5
I'm using D'Addario Chromes (12's), too.
kawe
|
|
|
Post by Professor1 on Jul 17, 2004 12:12:11 GMT -5
Right now, I'm using the Chromes in .011s for my jazzbox.
For my Strat and Tele, I use the D'Addario XLs in .010s. For my Les Paul, and my ES-335, i use the D'Addarios as well, but in .011s. This makes the Fenders and the gibsons have about the same feel from the strings, even though they have different scale lenghths.
For my acoustic, and I highly recommend them, I use John Pearse Phosphor Bronze lights, .012s. I won'tput anything else on my acoustics.
For classical, I use the D'Addario Pro Arté extra hard tension. They tune well, have excellent response, tone, and consistency between sets. I've tried the composite strings, but I really hated the way they felt.
|
|
|
Post by jazzalta on Jul 18, 2004 2:33:11 GMT -5
I really love the Fender flats (52-12) for my archtop. Very traditional/woody sounding. With my Larrivee steel string just about anything sounds great on it. And my classical - I'm still experimenting. Has to be at least hard tension though.
|
|
|
Post by johnnyc on Feb 3, 2005 22:45:09 GMT -5
I use flat wires on the jazz guitars, normally 11/51, I have Gibson flat wires, I haven't seen these advertised anywhere lately, D'Addario Chromes, 11/51 these are readily available, very reasonable in price and sound fine to me. I also have D'Aquisto "Sleek finish" flat wound strings 11/48, that i use on a Gibson ES 356 and a Brian Setzer Gretsch.
I bought the D'Aquisto strings, about 10 sets when Mars was going out of business. I still have 3 or 4 sets, I like them very much, but haven't really looked to see if they are still available.
I always raise the high E string up by 1, ie on the 11's I put a 12 on E. Even if I have a set of 9's on a strat, I will put a 10 on the first string.
|
|
|
Post by jazzalta on Feb 3, 2005 23:15:33 GMT -5
After years of using Fender flats, I have recently changed to D'addario chromes 11/51, but change the 11 to 12 and the B string to 16. These are fantastic strings and I envision my using them as long as they are in production.
|
|
|
Post by empregent on Feb 7, 2005 6:32:46 GMT -5
At the moment I'm using Thomastik-Infled's Jazz Swing 13's on my Emperor Regent
|
|
|
Post by tuneforaday on Mar 26, 2005 14:05:01 GMT -5
There is nowhere I can get flatwounds locally, so I’m going to buy them over the ‘net. I’ve initially narrowed my choice down to : D’Addario Chromes (12-52) Fender Flats (12-52) Thomastik Infelds Swing (12-53?) But, before I go ahead and order a few sets, I’d appreciate a bit of feedback/comments regarding tension and gauge. I notice that the TI’s are pretty balanced tension-wise, whereas the D’Addarios take a big leap between the 2nd and 3rd strings, especially. I used to think that it was desirable to have an even spread across the board, but on the other hand, in the (roundwound) set I’m using at present, there is several pounds’ difference in tension between certain strings, and I’ve got pretty used to it. I wonder if there’s method in manufacturers’ “madness” here, btw, because I remember a Dean Markley “Jazz” set which sported a .015 2nd and a .026 3rd !! I know that the tension of wound strings is supposed to be dictated by the diameter of the core wire employed, but the “skinniness” of the TI’s does seem to correlate to proportionately lower tension, and I was wondering how they feel under the fingers ; I’m used to fatter 3rd, 4th and 5th’s (22/24, 30/32, 52/54). I have no detailed info on the Fenders. Lastly, which set, if any, do you think would be best suited to a solid body guitar for all-round use, which includes a fair amount of straight ahead strumming ?
|
|
|
Post by jazzalta on Mar 26, 2005 16:27:44 GMT -5
I used to use the Fenders, but I found much more success with D'addario chromes. I don't "stick" as much and I love their sound. I haven't tried the Thomastics yet. Try a set of each.
|
|
|
Post by pinsk94 on Jun 20, 2005 18:58:08 GMT -5
For my acoustic, and I highly recommend them, I use John Pearse Phosphor Bronze lights, .012s. I won'tput anything else on my acoustics. I must concur with the John Pearse Phosphor bronze's on the acoustics. I have lights on the taylor and med's on the goody. I must admit I am very impressed with the Elixir phosphor bronzes I just got that they are testing. I like the longevity factor.
|
|
epi
Member
Posts: 27
|
Post by epi on Jun 21, 2005 14:53:25 GMT -5
Hi All,
I've heard great things about TI; I put them on customer instruments.
I use Gibson 640L 1/2 round Stainless (.011-.057) on my Howard Roberts Arch. They don't make them any more-I bought my supplier out 20 yrs ago-and have enough for the rest of my life.
I use GHS 720 M 1/2 round .011-.050-for most rock/jazz players-Plywood boxes- they drive the top very well and have long life.
For strats etc. it's usually Fender 150F .010-.046, solid nickel wrap--or GHS Nickel plated. It really depends on the player.
Most Accoustics w/under saddle trans. I've converted to GHS White Bronze TL. They seem to vastly improve tonal balance and output.
Classic: Generally- Savarez RED
OLD PARLOR GUITARS: Martin Or GHS Silk & Steel
HINT: If you buy boxes of strings, wrap each set in saran wrap, then put in an airtight plastic bag with some silica gel. Humidity is a strings worst enemy. Wipe your guitar down frequently. Leaving finger acids and salts on your instrument is llike never cleaning the cat box! : }
DO NOT USE A SILICONE FINGERBOARD SPRAY!! It penetrates most finishes & wood; If you ever need to do any touch up or refinishing --the silicone will cause' 'fish eye' in the finish.... It also causes re-fretting problems. A DROP or two of Mineral oil wiped into the fingerboard, let it penetrate then wipe off-- will help to prevent Fingerboard splitting and drying out
BEST STRINGS! The one's you prefer!!
|
|